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Shou Sugi Ban - wood burning natural preservative method.

ryanator

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I built some A-frame trellises for our garden squash plants to grow on this past week. I used some pine boards I recycled from an old box spring mattress.

The problem is pine doesn't last long in the outdoor elements and I don't want to use any chemical treatments for the garden. I left it as is and thought I'd leave it to chance. But a neighbor mentioned about using a torch to char it and the light bulb went on. I've noticed the remaining stumps after forest fires are incredibly strong and harder to cut down.

I looked it up the burning method it's called Shou Sugi Ban, a Japanese technique that can make wood last about 80 years or more depending on how deep you burn it without using anything else. So I'm going to try some time later using a propane torch that I have.
 
Wanted to update after reading more on this and other's experiences.

First a correction, some point out that the correct term is Yakasugi. Even though Shou Sugi Ban is used, and may seem interchangeable, technically it's incorrect from the Japanese translation and technique.

Second, the Japanese use and derived the term Yakasugi from cedar or cypress wood. These woods are known for having more natural protection from the elements and last longer on their own. Combine that with their charring/burning technique, it can allow a much longer longevity. However, I can confirm from personal experience, underground cedar without any other treatment will rot within 10 years or less and above ground may last 20 years or more depending.

While pine, being a softwood, is a good candidate for this technique, you need a good depth charring and might need to keep the outside ash on without brushing it off for it to benefit. That would lead to a mess to handle.

I don't think I'll go this route. I'll just make sure I have bases that the legs can go on which get anchored into the ground instead of sticking the legs directly in the ground. We'll see how long the outside lasts.
 
A simple solution @ryanator would be to just buy some clear Thompon Water Seal. I bought a gallon of it a few years ago, and 3 years later my picnic table is still beading water and is still in good shape. It also doesn't take a large amount so that gallon will last me many years. It's not a 100% solution as you will need to re-coat it every few years, but it does really work well. There are tons of ways to apply it. I just used a brush or rag, but you can also use a (new) cheap weed sprayer for mass application and just toss it when your done.
 
A simple solution @ryanator would be to just buy some clear Thompon Water Seal. I bought a gallon of it a few years ago, and 3 years later my picnic table is still beading water and is still in good shape. It also doesn't take a large amount so that gallon will last me many years. It's not a 100% solution as you will need to re-coat it every few years, but it does really work well. There are tons of ways to apply it. I just used a brush or rag, but you can also use a (new) cheap weed sprayer for mass application and just toss it when your done.
Even Thompson Water Seal contains solvents and petroleum ingredients that will leach into the soil and also plants can absorb those same ingredients as it touches it with the leaves and vines. Plus having to re-coat every few years becomes too much hassle, just becomes another thing to maintain.
 
A simple solution @ryanator would be to just buy some clear Thompon Water Seal. I bought a gallon of it a few years ago, and 3 years later my picnic table is still beading water and is still in good shape. It also doesn't take a large amount so that gallon will last me many years. It's not a 100% solution as you will need to re-coat it every few years, but it does really work well. There are tons of ways to apply it. I just used a brush or rag, but you can also use a (new) cheap weed sprayer for mass application and just toss it when your done.
Works great on our deck. Water stays on there so long I have to use the Dewalt blower to blast the water off.
 
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