Vehicle maintenance
- Thread starter nodle
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Well replaced my transaxle fluid today. It wasn't had at all, need a pump though to get it back up in there. I also missed the pan and made a mess on the floor, but that's what kitty litter is for. I'm going to help my Dad replace his rear sway bar bushings next.
Started getting the check engine light coming on consistently, and at times my car started to not accelerate when pressing the gas peddle. I look under the hood to check things out. Something always seems to happen after getting it serviced (oil, tires, etc..), where someone forgets to connect something back. I saw that the main air hose to the throttle body was disconnected, but sat flush to it so couldn't tell right away. I also haven't replace the engine air filter in a long time (my mistake). I borrowed my brother's obd2 scanner for assurance to get the codes and most were related to a air vacuum leak (as expected). And another was for the Mass Air Flow sensor. All of these together was probably confusing the computer on how much fuel to use.
I replaced the air filter, sprayed and cleaned the inside of the throttle body with non chlorinated brake cleaner (safe to use), and bought Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner (electrical contact cleaner) and took out the MAF and cleaned it well. I then reset all codes, not only with the scanner, but disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to reset the ECU.
So far after 50-60 miles, no lights have come on and it's running well. Good thing too, I just bought all 4 new tires.
I replaced the air filter, sprayed and cleaned the inside of the throttle body with non chlorinated brake cleaner (safe to use), and bought Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner (electrical contact cleaner) and took out the MAF and cleaned it well. I then reset all codes, not only with the scanner, but disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to reset the ECU.
So far after 50-60 miles, no lights have come on and it's running well. Good thing too, I just bought all 4 new tires.
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[QUOTE='ryanator]Started getting the check engine light coming on consistently, and at times my car started to not accelerate when pressing the gas peddle. I look under the hood to check things out. Something always seems to happen after getting it serviced (oil, tires, etc..), where someone forgets to connect something back. I saw that the main air hose to the throttle body was disconnected, but sat flush to it so couldn't tell right away. I also haven't replace the engine air filter in a long time (my mistake). I borrowed my brother's obd2 scanner for assurance to get the codes and most were related to a air vacuum leak (as expected). And another was for the Mass Air Flow sensor. All of these together was probably confusing the computer on how much fuel to use.
I replaced the air filter, sprayed and cleaned the inside of the throttle body with non chlorinated brake cleaner (safe to use), and bought Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner (electrical contact cleaner) and took out the MAF and cleaned it well. I then reset all codes, not only with the scanner, but disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to reset the ECU.
So far after 50-60 miles, no lights have come on and it's running well. Good thing too, I just bought all 4 new tires.
[/QUOTE]Good to hear! Hope it stays running well and without issue...until the next issue of course.
I replaced the air filter, sprayed and cleaned the inside of the throttle body with non chlorinated brake cleaner (safe to use), and bought Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner (electrical contact cleaner) and took out the MAF and cleaned it well. I then reset all codes, not only with the scanner, but disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to reset the ECU.
So far after 50-60 miles, no lights have come on and it's running well. Good thing too, I just bought all 4 new tires.
[/QUOTE]Good to hear! Hope it stays running well and without issue...until the next issue of course.
[QUOTE='ryanator]Started getting the check engine light coming on consistently, and at times my car started to not accelerate when pressing the gas peddle. I look under the hood to check things out. Something always seems to happen after getting it serviced (oil, tires, etc..), where someone forgets to connect something back. I saw that the main air hose to the throttle body was disconnected, but sat flush to it so couldn't tell right away. I also haven't replace the engine air filter in a long time (my mistake). I borrowed my brother's obd2 scanner for assurance to get the codes and most were related to a air vacuum leak (as expected). And another was for the Mass Air Flow sensor. All of these together was probably confusing the computer on how much fuel to use.
I replaced the air filter, sprayed and cleaned the inside of the throttle body with non chlorinated brake cleaner (safe to use), and bought Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner (electrical contact cleaner) and took out the MAF and cleaned it well. I then reset all codes, not only with the scanner, but disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to reset the ECU.
So far after 50-60 miles, no lights have come on and it's running well. Good thing too, I just bought all 4 new tires.
[/QUOTE]***Just wanted to note that I did take out the MAF sensor before spraying the throttle body at the time.
So I should have went with my initial assumption, I ended up purchasing a used OEM mass air flow sensor (MAF) off eBay for $45, and sure enough, my car runs slick again and the check engine light has stayed off. The previous bad MAF messed with the car's computer calculation of fuel/air ratio and would want to stall the engine or go into "limp mode".
I think this was all caused by the main air hose/boot being not fully connected over and clamped (but snugly abutted to the throttle body). This could have been like this for several months or so, and even though I would like to blame it on whoever changed the oil last (I could have done this as well, but had several bad experiences with various shops forgetting to reconnect something). This over time would have caused the sensor to get contaminated beyond what it can handle and fried the wiring inside. The visible hot wires looked fine and I cleaned them with a proper cleaner several times with no luck.
I spent an extra $250 on other things, $100 muffler repair/clean (looking at Catalytic Converter) and $150 for a diagnose fee which said I need a new Cat Converter for $1,700. They didn't do anything other than scan the codes and try to make more money off me. I didn't want to be that guy trying to tell them everything I did and tell them how to do their job, but I respected their expertise, but it ended up with they must know best. They didn't even do any advanced diagnosis, which is why someone would pay $150 in the first place. Also, I knew I should have cleared out the prior code of me changing out the O2 sensor that took care of the "insufficient cat converter" code, all they did was take the history of that and saw dollar signs.
I replaced the air filter, sprayed and cleaned the inside of the throttle body with non chlorinated brake cleaner (safe to use), and bought Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner (electrical contact cleaner) and took out the MAF and cleaned it well. I then reset all codes, not only with the scanner, but disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to reset the ECU.
So far after 50-60 miles, no lights have come on and it's running well. Good thing too, I just bought all 4 new tires.
[/QUOTE]***Just wanted to note that I did take out the MAF sensor before spraying the throttle body at the time.
So I should have went with my initial assumption, I ended up purchasing a used OEM mass air flow sensor (MAF) off eBay for $45, and sure enough, my car runs slick again and the check engine light has stayed off. The previous bad MAF messed with the car's computer calculation of fuel/air ratio and would want to stall the engine or go into "limp mode".
I think this was all caused by the main air hose/boot being not fully connected over and clamped (but snugly abutted to the throttle body). This could have been like this for several months or so, and even though I would like to blame it on whoever changed the oil last (I could have done this as well, but had several bad experiences with various shops forgetting to reconnect something). This over time would have caused the sensor to get contaminated beyond what it can handle and fried the wiring inside. The visible hot wires looked fine and I cleaned them with a proper cleaner several times with no luck.
I spent an extra $250 on other things, $100 muffler repair/clean (looking at Catalytic Converter) and $150 for a diagnose fee which said I need a new Cat Converter for $1,700. They didn't do anything other than scan the codes and try to make more money off me. I didn't want to be that guy trying to tell them everything I did and tell them how to do their job, but I respected their expertise, but it ended up with they must know best. They didn't even do any advanced diagnosis, which is why someone would pay $150 in the first place. Also, I knew I should have cleared out the prior code of me changing out the O2 sensor that took care of the "insufficient cat converter" code, all they did was take the history of that and saw dollar signs.
PSA, change your in car air filters often. We have a pretty new car with only 21k mies on it. I thought I had better change my in car air filter, you know the one that is behind your glovebox normally. Anyways I couldn't believe how black and dirty it was. Change them often and they are cheap.
I have always used Amsoil oil filters, but they have been out of stock since like January. I am going to have to look to an alternative oil filter. It's funny even some of the alternatives are even out of stock as well 'due to supply chain issues'. I have been looking for an alternative and people are recommending Fram Ultra Synthetic. People are saying the results are pretty close to Amsoil filters. What does everyone else use, or recommend?
Ultra Synthetic | FRAM
Ultra Synthetic | FRAM
I changed my oil in my truck this weekend. I went back to my logs; it had been 1 year and two months since I had last changed it. I only put 1,500 miles on a 20k oil and 20k filter. It's a waste, but it's whatever comes first the miles or a year. It was still gold when I dumped it. 
My rear window defogger (defroster) was not working since last year. All the orange lines were ok, no breaks, so i finally got to it and took the panel off near the sides of the window. Sure enough, one metal tab fell off of its conductive glue.
I simply used arctic silver paste and used aluminum duct tape to secure it nice, now works like new.
I simply used arctic silver paste and used aluminum duct tape to secure it nice, now works like new.
I had the luxury of two 3 ton floor jacks till my dad took his. I never realized how useful two are especially for changing tires. So now it looks like I am in the market to purchase another. I borrowed one from work and got my tires rotated on two of my vehicles, so that feels good.